Quilting Reference Tables

Quilting Basics 101

Some quick tables of reference for you

Getting Started

Before you begin work on your quilt there are some factors to consider. Good planning avoids costly miscalculations, especially those of buying too much or too little fabric. Some of the things to determine before setting to work are the following:

  • The size the quilt is going to be.
  • Whether or not it will drop down the sides of the bed, and if so, how far.
  • If it will be tucked under the pillows
  • The size of each block within the quilt
  • The layout of the blocks
  • The width of the fabric you are going to use
  • Whether or not you will sash between the rows and the blocks
HOW MANY INCHES
ARE IN A YARD
1 YARD 36 INCHES
7/8 YARD 31.5 INCHES
¾ YARD 27 INCHES
2/3 YARD 24 INCHES
5/8 YARD 22.5 INCHES
½ YARD 18 INCHES
3/8 YARD 13.5 INCHES
1/3 YARD 12 INCHES
¼ YARD 9 INCHES
1/8 YARD 4.5 INCHES

 

FAT QUARTERS MAKE:
99 2″ squares
56 2.5″ squares
42 3″ squares
30 3.5″ Squares
20 4″ Squares
16 4.5″ Squares
15 5″ Squares
12 5.5″ Squares
9 6″ Squares
6 6.5″ Squares

Approximate Sizes for Standard Quilts

SIZE RANGE OF ADULT QUILTS CHILDREN’S QUILTS
Twin 75″ x 98″ or 68″ x 88″ “Preemie” Quilt 18″ x 20-24″
Full 83″ x 106″ or 81″ x 88″ Newborn 25″ x 30″
Queen 90″ x 106’ or 88″ x 96″ Crib 50″ x 53″
King 107″ x 108″ Toddler 35″ x 45″
Child 40″ x 60″

Calculating Fractions for Quilts

Fraction 1/8 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4 7/8
Decimal 0.125 0.25 0.375 0.5 0.625 0.75 0.785

Quilt Binding Requirements

(Based on 45″ wide fabric)

Length + Width of Quilt Number of Strips Required Total Amount of Fabric Yardage Required Total Usable Length
24″ – 34″ 2 5″ 1/4 Yard 68″
36″- 50″ 3 7 1/2″ 1/4 Yard 102″
52″ – 66″ 4 10″ 1/2 Yard 136″
68″ – 84″ 5 12 1/2″ 1/2 Yard 170″
86″ – 100″ 6 15″ 1/2 Yard 204″
102″ – 118″ 7 17 1/2″ 1/2 Yard 238″
120″ – 134″ 8 20″ 3/4 Yard 272″
136″ – 152″ 9 22 1/2″ 3/4 Yard 306″
154″ – 168″ 10 25″ 3/4 Yard 340″
170″ – 186″ 11 27 1/2″ 1 Yard 374″
188″ – 200″ 12 30″ 1 Yard 408″
Estimates based on 2 1/2″ cut binding strip width.

Shadow Boxes

I just love the way this quilt style looks. I’m usually not much of a fan of modern quilting patterns, with my taste running more towards traditional pieced quilts, but this one… Oh my!

I love the 3-D look to this one. This particular one is done in batiks. I have some. I’m not sure how much and I’ll probably have to break down and buy more. Such a shame! Shopping.  

Kauffman has a nice pattern for a Shadow Box.  You can find a free tutorial here. Thank you Jean MaDan!

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Let me know if you make or have made one of your own!

Upcycled Bags!

20140703_1714111-e1404665282233-150x150If you’re like me and have big dogs who eat dry dog food, you’re going to end up with a collection of very large, very sturdy bags. What do you do with yours when the food is gone? Toss them? Recycle them? Our area doesn’t have a recycling program that accepts the food bags. So there you are. Stuck with a pile of bags that are too nice to toss out.

I started thinking about the bags from Costco they sell for your grocery items. They’re not made to last. At least it seems like that to me.  The handles dig into my hands if there’s much weight in the bags at all and…I just can’t bring myself to pay for them.

Now here I have several dog food bags I’ve saved and I turned them into some darn fine grocery tote bags. I made a dozen out of bird seed bags, too, but those are just the right size for a gazillion uses so the kids and grandkids have pilfered them all! I’ll have to make more bird seed bag totes before long. But for today, I want to make the larger bags.

The first second thing you should do is cut off the bottom end. The very FIRST thing you should do is make sure all the food or seeds are out of the bag. Hitting a sunflower seed or piece of dog food with your scissors while you’re trying to cut a straight line doesn’t work well. Once you have both ends open, take the bag to the bathtub and wash all the sticky residue and crumbs from the inside of the bag. You’ll find out later why this step is important. Dry the inside and outside of the bag well with and old towel or rag or hang it outside to drip dry if it’s warm out. This makes the bag more of a tube. You’ll want to either wipe the inside down with a rag with soap and water or take them to the bathtub and give them a nice soak to remove the slippery, sticky film the dog food creates. It also removes the crumbs. I’ll tell you why later that it’s an important step in case you haven’t figured that out yet.20140703_1552491-150x150

Once your bag is nice and clean inside and out and dried well, you can cut a nice straight line across the bottom of the bag. Just smash it flat and use a straightedge to mark a line. You can use scissors to cut along this line or you can do what I did. I use a rotary cutter and a quilting ruler to make a nice straight edge like I would do with fabric.

Measure up from that bottom edge and place a mark at about 30 inches. This will give you enough to make a nice size bag bottom and turn the top edge over where your handles will go. Cut along your new line. The large section is going to be your bag. Out of the smaller section, cut a strip that’s 5 inches wide. Cut straight across the bag. You’ll have a very short tube now. Cut the section from the top to the bottom of your new tube where the heat bonded seam is on the bag. This will turn your tube into a strip. Now hold the cut ends together and fold in half. Cut the strip across to make two strip sections the same size. These will be your handles.

Fold the handle section in half lengthways and use your finger or a wooden pressing stick to make a nice center crease in the strip. Fold the long side cut edge to meet this fold line in the center. Or as close as you can get. Again, press this new folded edge with a pressing stick. Do the same with the other side. Then fold that together and you’ll have a nice edge on both sides (easier on the fingers when you carry it). It’ll almost look like folded bias tape. Sew along each side 1/8 inch from the edge and one more time down the center of the strip.

20140703_1643461-150x150Now it’s time for the tricky part. Sewing the top of the bag over and attaching the handles in the same process. It’s slippery. You can’t use pins.

 

20140703_1656441-150x150I’m sure you technically could use pins but why put holes in the bag on purpose? I use binder clips to hold the handles in the position I’ve marked ahead of time. The binder clips work as a general third hand but don’t even try to sew near them.  They do not budge when budging is needed. When you get close to the clips, remove them before sewing past the handle. Before you can do this, you have to turn the bag inside out so the pretty side is inside. Did you remember to wash and dry the bag first? If not, you probably now have a mouthful of dog food crumbs. And your hands are sticky. I told you to wash it first! Don’t ask me how I learned how important it was. I’ll admit to nothing. Ever.

Once you get past this challenge, it’s time to form the bottom of the bag. I do this by squishing the corners flat so the end makes a triangle. Try to match both corners up the same. 20140703_1739311-150x150When you’re sure you have the measurements correct, it’s time to sew across the corners. Turn the bag inside out so the right side is showing, press those corners with your fingertips so you get a nice sharp corner. The excess folded triangle corner parts can be cut off or do as I do and leave them in, press them to the center of the bag and forget they’re there. I like to pretend they add a bit more substance to the bottom seam, making the bag stronger. Regardless if that’s true or not, we tested the first bag I made by having a willing adult female step inside the bag while her strong he-man lifted her up in the bag and carried her though the kitchen. No fails!! If the bag can carry a young woman, it’ll hold your groceries without worrying about dumping them in the driveway. And here ya go! A bag that will last a long time and will carry more than you want to lift in the first place!

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2014 Christmas Projects Undone

I’ve got a lot on my list that is supposed to be done for Christmas giving. I think I either need a cloned me or someone who’s willing to step in an volunteer to do everything else. Maybe slip me a piece of bread under the door to the room I happen to be in at the time.  I’m easy to please. Maybe a bit of jelly on toast? A cup of fresh coffee?

  • Baby Doll Clothes and Hats
  • Hats and more hats for grands (not sure how many I’m going to get done…short notice on the requests and all…)
  • Sweater dress (have a good start on this)    DONE!
  • Scarves for the elderly people I know. (Yes. I do know people older than me so stick a sock in it!)
  • Quilts to be quilted (I still have two or more that need to be pieced)

And all that doesn’t include the cooking, cleaning, shopping and chores that still need to be done every day. I’m so glad I’m “retired”.  I sure can’t figure out when I ever had time to have a job outside the house when I was younger.

Old Fashioned Crispy Fried Chicken | RecipeLion.com

Quoted from http://www.recipelion.com/Chicken-Recipes/Old-Fashioned-Crispy-Fried-Chicken:

Crunch into what you remember as a child with Old Fashioned Crispy Chicken. This classic recipe pays tribute to old fashioned cooking and it’s simplicity. Extra crunchy, extra tasty, and extra great, you’ll consider this to be one of the best chicken recipes.

Ingredients
  • 1 large chicken, 4 pounds, cut into pieces
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup whole wheat flour
  • 1 tablespoon salt, or to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 cup peanut oil
  • 1 bunch parsley, rinsed and dried, for garnish
Instructions
  1. Rinse the chicken well and pat it thoroughly dry.
  2. Sift the flours and the spices together into a small paper bag, so they are well mixed. Drop the chicken, two or three pieces at a time, into the bag, hold the bag closed, and shake it so the chicken is thoroughly covered.
  3. Transfer the chicken to a wire cake rack and let it sit, refrigerated, for 2 hours, so the flour will adhere. Reserve the remaining flour mixture.
  4. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Dredge the chicken once more in the flour mixture, shaking off the excess.
  5. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the chicken, making sure you do not crowd the pan. Cover, and cook until the chicken begins to turn brown, about 8 minutes, reducing the heat slightly if necessary. Turn the chicken, cover, and continue cooking until it is cooked through and the juices from the thigh run clear when pricked with a fork, an additional 10 minutes.
  6. Arrange the chicken on a brown paper bag to drain, and leave it for about 5 minutes. Then transfer the chicken to a warmed serving platter, garnish with the parsley and serve immediately.

Hand Puppet Scarf Crochet Pattern from Red Heart Yarn | FaveCrafts.com

Quoted from http://www.favecrafts.com/Crochet-for-Kids/Puppet-Scarf-Crochet-Pattern-from-Red-Heart:

Hand Puppet Scarf Crochet Pattern from Red Heart Yarn | FaveCrafts.com

Crochet a colorful scarf that also entertains with fun hand puppets at each end. This scarf crochet pattern is a great crochet pattern for kids.

Crochet Hand Puppet Scarf

Materials:

  • Yarn: RED HEART® “Super Saver®”: 1 Skein each 929 Bikini A, 722 Pretty n’ Pink B, 256 Carrot C. RED HEART® “Sport”: 1 Skein each 1 White and 12 Black for eyes
  • Crochet Hooks: 5.5mm [US I-9] and 3.75mm [US F-5].
  • stitch marker
  • yarn needle

Size: 4¾” x 62” including puppets

Gauge: Scarf: 14 sts = 4”; 9 rows = 4” in hdc with larger hook. Puppets: 4 sts = 1”; 5 rows = 1” in sc with larger hook.

Instructions:

NOTE: Scarf has tapered ends designed to fit inside of the puppet neck.

SCARF
With larger hook and A, ch 9.
Row 1 (Right Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across; turn – 8 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across; turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc; 2 sc in last sc; turn – 10 sc.
Rows 4 and 5: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 – 12 sc.
Row 6: Ch 2, 2 hdc in first sc, hdc in each sc to last sc; 2 hdc in last sc; turn – 14 hdc.
Row 7: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc across; turn.
Repeat Row 7 until 46” from beginning.
Next Row: Ch 2, skip first hdc, hdc in next 11 hdc; [yo and draw up a loop in next hdc] twice, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook – hdc2tog made; turn – 12 hdc.
Next Row: Ch 1, skip first hdc, sc in next 9 hdc; [draw up a loop in next hdc] twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook – sc2tog made; turn – 10 sc.
Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across.
Next Row: Ch 1, skip first sc, sc in each sc to last 2 sc; sc2tog – 8 sc. Fasten off.
Edging Rnd: With right side facing and larger hook, join C in any st; ch 1, work sc evenly around entire scarf. Fasten off.

PUPPETS
** Neck and Upper Head/Jaw: With larger hook and B, ch 24; join with a slip st in first ch to form a ring, being careful that ch is not twisted.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 23 ch; join with a slip st in top of ch-2 – 24 sts.
Rnds 2-6: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around; join.

Head Shaping-Rnd 7: Turn to work on the wrong side; ch 1, sc in first 12 hdc, ch 12, skip next 12 hdc; join with a slip st in first sc to form ring on which to crochet upper head/jaw. Now work in continuous rnds without joining, marking first st as beginning of rnd and moving marker up on each rnd.
Rnd 8: 2 Sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, [2 sc in next ch, sc in next 5 ch] twice – 28 sc.
Rnd 9: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc] 4 times – 32 sc.
Rnd 10: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc] 4 times – 36 sc.
Rnds 11-14: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 15: * [Sc2tog] twice, sc in next 14 sc; repeat from * once more – 32 sc.
Rnd 16: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 17: * [Sc2tog] twice, sc in next 12 sts; repeat from * once more – 28 sc.
Rnd 18: * [Sc2tog] twice, sc in next 10 sc; repeat from * once more – 24 sc.
Rnd 19: [Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc] twice – 22 sc.
Rnd 20: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 21: [Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc] twice – 20 sc.
Rnds 22-24: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 25: [Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc] twice – 18 sc.
Rnd 26: * [Sc2tog] twice, sc in next 5 sc; repeat from * once more –14 sc.

Shape Nose-Rnd 27: * [Sc2tog] twice, sc in next 3 sc; repeat from * once more changing to C in last sc – 10 sc.
Rnd 28: With C, [sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc] twice – 8 sc.
Rnd 29: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] twice – 10 sc.
Rnd 30: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc] twice – 8 sc. Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Weave yarn through remaining sts to close nose end. Bring needle through nose to point where nose rnds begin and wrap the yarn tightly around the base of the nose several times, fasten securely. Weave in end. This gives the nose definition and prevents the need for stuffing.

NOTE: When working the lower jaw, the “mouth corner” can be found by laying puppet with slit opening facing upwards. Attach yarn to the rightmost stitch and proceed working in continuous rnds as directed.

Lower Jaw-Rnd 31: With wrong side facing and larger hook, join B in first ch of mouth corner to work in 12 remaining ch-loops of Rnd 7 and 12 remaining hdc of Rnd 6, place marker; sc in each st around – 24 sc.
Rnds 32 and 33: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 34: [Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc] twice – 22 sc.
Rnds 35-37: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 38: [Sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc] twice – 20 sc.
Rnd 39: [Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc] twice – 18 sc.
Rnd 40: [Sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc] twice – 16 sc.
Rnds 41-42: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 43: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc] twice – 14 sc.
Rnd 44: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc] twice – 12 sc.
Rnd 45: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc] twice – 10 sc.
Rnd 46: [Sc2tog] 5 times – 5 sc. Fasten off. Weave yarn through remaining sts; draw up firmly; fasten securely.
Ears (Make 2)-Rnd 1: With larger hook and B, ch 2; working over beginning yarn end work 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook; pull yarn end to close any gap at center.
Rnd 2: [2 Sc in next sc] 5 times – 10 sc.
Rnd 3: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] twice – 12 sc.
Rnd 4: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc] twice – 14 sc.
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 6: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc] twice – 12 sc.
Rnd 7: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc] twice – 10 sc. Fasten off leaving a 10” tail. Sew ears in place. **
Repeat from ** to ** with C for second puppet, using B for nose.

Eyes (Make 4)-Rnd 1: With smaller hook and white yarn, ch 2; working over beginning yarn end work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook; pull yarn end to close any gap at center.
Rnd 2: [2 sc in next sc] 4 times – 8 sc.
Rnd 3: [2 Sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] twice – 10 sc.
Rnd 4: Sc in each sc around – 10 sc.
Rnd 5: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sc] twice; slip st in next sc – 8 sc. Fasten off leaving a 10” tail.
Embroider a French knot pupil with black yarn. Sew eyes in place.

Puppet Edging-Rnd 1: With right side facing and larger hook, join A in any st at cuff opening; ch 1, sc in each st around; join with a slip st in first sc – 24 sc.
Rnd 2: [Ch 3, slip st in next sc] 23 times, ch 3, slip st in first slip st. Fasten off.

Finishing: Lay the scarf flat; place a puppet at either end of the scarf with the opening towards the tapered scarf end and the nose facing away. Insert tapered end of scarf into the puppet opening about 2”; pin scarf to the upper part of the puppet only, (in the “wrist” area if this were a mitten). Sew the top layer of puppet securely with matching yarn to the tapered scarf ends, being careful not to sew the opening closed.

Caramel Popcorn Recipe

Quoted from http://recipes.sparkpeople.com/recipe-detail.asp?recipe=756713:

Caramel Popcorn Recipe

Popcorn Submittedby: CHEF_MEG

Introduction

With “The SparkPeople Cookbook,” desserts and treats are part of the plan. Chef Meg slims down favorite sweets, ditching most of the fat and calories–but keeping the flavor. This is a “must-try” recipe! With “The SparkPeople Cookbook,” desserts and treats are part of the plan. Chef Meg slims down favorite sweets, ditching most of the fat and calories–but keeping the flavor. This is a “must-try” recipe!
Minutes to Prepare: 5 Minutes to Cook: 45 NumberofServings: 18

Ingredients

      Cooking spray
      1 cup packed dark brown sugar
      1/2 cup light-colored corn syrup
      1/4 cup butter

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      1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
      1/2 teaspoon

baking soda

      1/2 teaspoon salt
      12 cups air-popped popcorn (6 T kernels)

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Tips

 

Directions

This recipe is from “The SparkPeople Cookbook“!

Preheat oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Coat a large jelly roll pan or baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray.
Combine sugar, corn syrup, and butter in a medium or large heavy bottomed saucepan; bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook 4-5 minutes, stirring 3-4 times to scrape down the sides of the pan and keep the mixture from bubbling up. If you have a pastry brush, dip it in cool water and use it to brush down the sides of the pan. Be careful; the mixture will burn you if it boils over. Remove from heat; stir in vanilla, baking soda, and salt. Place popcorn in a large bowl; pour sugar mixture over popcorn in a steady stream, stirring to coat.

Spread popcorn mixture into prepared pan. Bake at 250 degrees Fahrenheit for 45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes.

Remove from oven; stir to break up any large clumps. Cool 15 minutes. Serve at room temperature.

Let the popcorn cool completely before storing. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week. Serving size is about 2/3 cup.

In Katrina’s Kitchen: Homemade Girl Scout Cookies – Thin Mints!

Quoted from http://www.inkatrinaskitchen.com/2011/03/homemade-girl-scout-cookies-thin-mints.html:

 
 Printable Recipe Here:
Homemade Thin Mints

Homemade Thin Mints
Source: Adapted from
Handle the Heat, Makes 30-40 cookies


Chocolate Wafers: · 1 cup butter, room temperature · 1 cup powdered sugar · 1 teaspoon vanilla extract · 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder · 3/4 teaspoon salt · 1 1/2 cups cake flour (all-purpose would work just fine) · Chocolate Peppermint Coating: · 1 package mint dark chocolate candy melts -or- · 1 pound good quality semi-sweet chocolate, chopped · peppermint extract to taste (about 1 teaspoon)


Cookie dough: In a mixer cream the butter until it is light and fluffy. Add the powdered sugar and continue to cream, scraping the sides of the bowl a couple times if necessary. Stir in the vanilla extract, salt, and cocoa powder. Mix until the cocoa powder is integrated and the batter is smooth and creamy, resembling a thick frosting. Add the flour and mix just until the batter is no longer dusty looking but still a bit crumbly. Turn the dough out onto a clean counter, gather it into a ball, and knead it together into a nice, smooth mass. Divide the dough in 2, flatten into disks, and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for 15 minutes.

Rollout and bake: Preheat oven to 350. Roll dough out really thin, about 1/8-inch. These are called thin mints after all. You can either roll it out between two sheets of plastic, or dust your counter and rolling pin with a bit of flour and do it that way. If the dough is too firm to roll you can microwave it for 5 seconds. Cut out cookies and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the cookies from the oven and allow them to cool completely on a wire rack.

Make the peppermint coating:
Meanwhile, prepare your chocolate coating. Using a double boiler, slowly melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally until it is glossy and smooth. You can add 1 tablespoon of shortening if your chocolate is too thick. Alternatively, use a microwave in short 15-20 second bursts to melt the chocolate. Stir in the peppermint extract if you don’t have the mint candy melts.


Finishing the cookies: Using a fork gently drop the cookies one at a time into the chocolate coating. Flip to coat all sides. Lift the cookie out of the chocolate with the fork and bang the fork on the side of the pan to drain any extra chocolate off the cookie. You are after a thin, even coating of chocolate. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet, and repeat for the rest of the cookies. Place the cookies in the refrigerator or freezer to set.

Homemade Thin Mints (Low Carb and Gluten Free) | All Day I Dream About Food

Quoted from http://alldayidreamaboutfood.com/2011/02/homemade-thin-mints-low-carb-and-gluten-free.html:

Homemade Thin Mints

Cookies:
1 3/4 cups almond flour
1/3 cup cocao powder
3 tbsp granulated erythritol
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
1 large egg, slightly beaten
2 tbsp butter, melted
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
10 drops stevia

Coating:
1 tbsp butter
2 3.5oz Lindt chocolate bars (85% cacao) (or 7-8oz of any sugar-free chocolate chips)
1 tsp peppermint extract

Click here for complete recipie.

Girl Scout Cookie Recipe: Somoas | Amanda’s Cookin’

Quoted from http://amandascookin.com/2008/11/girl-scout-cookie-recipe-somoas.html:

 

 

Recipe credit: Nicole @ Baking Bites,
See Nicole’s Original Recipe here: ————————————

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